Wanderings in the wild, wild west

The Hoh Xil National Nature Reserve in Qinghai province is the country's most biologically diverse area. It's home to many species, including the Tibetan antelope. [Photo provided to China Daily]

The government provides compensation to alleviate conflicts between humans and wildlife, such as when predators kill livestock.

Bears are burglars. Any nomad will tell you.

They literally follow their noses to the food.

A bear burned Beige's house.

The nomad, who like many Tibetans only has one name, put his stove in his home's entrance when he led his livestock to graze.

The idea was a bear would feel the heat and flee.

Instead, it knocked the stove over. Baige's house caught fire.

Officials photographed the damage and documented the case. They gave him bedding, a new door and cash to compensate for the incinerated possessions, mostly furniture, sheepskins and jewelry.

I believed the story to be a local yarn until I saw the government's paperwork.

I haven't seen a bear during my journeys through Hoh Xil. Yet.

Maybe next time－perhaps while it's crossing the road to get to the other side.