Stars that shine over the capital

Most of the Bib Gourmand's restaurants feature Beijing snacks such as douzhi, fermented mung bean milk, luzhu, braised pork intestines or blanched tripes.

Rong Cuisine, considered a budget friendly spinoff of the decidedly upmarket Xin Rong Ji, is also included in the selection.

Keaami, in Chaoyang North Road, is the only Thai cuisine restaurant in the guide. That seems odd, given that its average price is more than 200 yuan and that it is included in the Bib Gourmand list together with other Beijing snacks.

Founder and chef of Da Dong, Dong Zhenxiang says in a long comment on the Bib Gourmand list that fermented and smelly snacks can be an establishment's signature offerings, but even though Beijingers may love them, that does not mean there is a wider appreciation for them.

"There are many other fine dishes in Beijing that should be recommended to the world as a way of presenting Chinese cuisine.… The Michelin Guide seems to reflect food of Beijing in bygone days, but the capital's culinary culture has moved on.

"I hope Michelin's inspectors can get a deeper understanding of the places they inspect, and dispense with biased, preconceived ideas so that we can share our love for pure delicacy."