Expanding foie gras market in China and beyond

Within the bustling kitchen of a top-tier Japanese eatery in Shanghai, entrepreneur Zhu Renjun unraveled a frost-kissed foam box. Inside, the foie gras glistened with a luscious creamy sheen, prompting a sigh of relief from the head chef — it's the right ingredient.

Little did this "goose magnate "from Anhui province anticipate that the contents of this box would change the upscale dining landscape in East China for the next two decades.

Back in 2003, in Huoqiu county of East China's Anhui province, Zhu, fresh into the world of Landes goose farming, confronted a stark reality: despite his ability to craft top-notch foie gras, breaking into the market proved elusive.

"Out of a thousand restaurants, even sparking interest from just one was a triumph at that time. Not a lot of people ate foie gras. Back then, even the security guards in five-star hotel kitchens cast dubious glances at my foam-laden cargo," Zhu said.

For Zhu, the years spanning from 2003 to 2008 were a crucible of adversity. To boost productivity, he poured his entire savings into raising geese, peddling goose meat and promoting foie gras.

"It was a money pit. Acquiring goslings, tending to the farm, investing in equipment — yet struggling to promote the foie gras to be accepted by many restaurants. I resorted to selling goose meat to break even, crisscrossing the nation to pitch to eateries. We even bunked under bridges to cut costs," said Zhu.

It was this unyielding spirit that propelled Zhu through a "do-or-die breakthrough" in his fifth year of entrepreneurial toil. From Shanghai to Guangzhou, he traversed the expanse of East China with his homemade ice transport chest. Leveraging endorsements from culinary associations, he successfully cracked the door open to Japanese cuisine establishments.

Today, his enterprise, Anhui Renjun Poultry Farming Co Ltd, boasts annual sales of 110 tons of foie gras and a flock of 120,000 geese, consolidating its status as a premier player in Landes goose husbandry in China.

Hailing from France, Landes geese yield opulent and pricey foie gras. However, with their domestic introduction, the foie gras market saw a price plunge of around 40 percent, courtesy of trailblazers like Zhu.

In Huoqiu, Anhui, a hub for foie gras production, over 140 Landes goose farming outfits flourish. The yearly output of Landes geese surpasses 5 million, yielding over 5,000 metric tons of foie gras and more than 22,500 tons of goose meat and ancillary products, boasting an annual value of up to 2 billion yuan ($275.5 million).

A profound metamorphosis is brewing within the industry. With Huoqiu clinching the title of "China's foie gras town", the county has stitched together a seamless chain from goose breeding to the intricate processing of foie gras sauce to other related industries.

Today, Zhu's enterprise has ventured into uncharted territory. "The European Union mandates a three-kilometer farm-residential distance, a make-or-break situation for us," he said. Acknowledging that Huoqiu's foie gras output constitutes a third of the national total, with 90 percent of enterprises yet to meet export criteria, he collaborates with the government to advance the overseas expansion of local foie gras companies.

"While we charge ahead in the global market, we remain steadfast in fortifying our domestic foothold. Alongside ensuring foie gras quality, we've innovated with precooked offerings, now trying to enter major supermarkets. Meanwhile, an array of deep-processed foie gras products — from cherry-infused to creamy and red wine-infused variations — packaged for instant consumption at prices ranging from tens to hundreds of yuan, cater to diverse consumer demands," Zhu said.

"We aspire to further broaden our domestic sales channels. Beyond restaurants and major retailers, we're venturing into online livestreaming and e-commerce platforms and expecting more sales growth this year," he added. "Challenges are fleeting. Navigating solutions is akin to leveling up and battling foes in games. This process is not just about witnessing my business flourish but also about personal growth that generates a source of pride and purpose. With persistence, one can weather any winter."