Simply a matter of good taste

Passion for mushrooms sprouts in Yunnan where fungi steal the show, Deng Zhangyu reports.

Curious about where in the world people are most passionate about mushrooms? A visit to Yunnan province, nestled in Southwest China, provides the answer. Strolling along the streets in any city here, you'll encounter shops selling vegetable oil, with large advertisements boldly proclaiming: "Stir-fry mushrooms for an especially delightful aroma!" Hotpot restaurants, filled with diners enjoying a mushroom feast, are scattered throughout every corner.

My friend Nie Rongqing grew up in Kunming, the capital city of Yunnan province. A writer who has published a book about Yunnan's mushrooms, Nie tells me that mushrooms are an indispensable part of any conversation about food for the people of this region.

In other words, in the culinary tapestry of Yunnan, mushrooms are so integral that without them, locals feel they would lack the credibility to discuss Yunnan cuisine with outsiders.

Last September, when I met Nie at a restaurant in Kunming, he mysteriously announced that he had a precious gift for me. He cautiously took out two palm-sized matsutake mushrooms, freshly harvested from the mountains of Shangri-La the day before. He then summoned the waiter and instructed him to have the chef slice them.

After a few minutes, the matsutake, still fragrant with the soil's earthiness, were expertly sliced into vertical pieces by the chef, transformed into a plate of matsutake sashimi, and served to us with soy sauce and wasabi.

"In Yunnan, the most treasured way to treat guests is to let them savor the most delicious mushrooms," he said with a smile.

In June, local people eagerly look forward to the arrival of the rainy season. With the generous downpours, a variety of mushrooms bursts forth from the mountainous terrain, signaling the start of the annual mushroom culinary season.

From July to September, a visit to any market in Yunnan offers a vibrant display of mushrooms in a spectrum of colors and unusual shapes. Locals lovingly refer to these as jier, a nickname reserved for these wild, untamable gifts of nature that defy cultivation. Harvested from the mountains, these natural treasures find their way into home kitchens and are celebrated as the most sought-after delicacies in eateries ranging from modest to upscale.