Revival of a long-gone dress code

Wang, the designer, blended historical patterns with modern appeal in the hanfu. The 24-year-old fashion design graduate received a national design patent in 2022 for her patterns and motif designs.

Before she starts designing, Wang does thorough research on the historical patterns and motifs.

"We often draw inspiration from artifacts belonging to different dynasties. For the Qin and Han dynasties, we examine bronze ware. For the Tang Dynasty, we focus on silk textiles. For the Song Dynasty (960-1279), there are more historical materials available, offering a richer foundation for our designs," she said.

Such research allows Wang to create designs that are both authentic and innovative.

"When aiming for a modern twist, we extract these patterns, reconstruct and reorganize them, and then apply new color schemes," she said.

"Our focus is on aesthetics and harmony. The original artifacts often provide only a broad sense of color, as intricate patterns have faded over time. We might look at the ceramics for inspiration, using their color palettes as a guide for our redesigns."

Wang acknowledges the balance between innovation and restoration. "There are two main schools of thought: innovation and restoration. While some purists aim to replicate historical garments exactly, it's important to recognize the differences between ancient and modern aesthetics. To bring hanfu into the mainstream, we need to align it with contemporary tastes," she said.

Despite the challenges, Wang sees a bright future for hanfu. "Many garments today are Western-style, and people find hanfu impractical for daily wear.

However, integrating hanfu into everyday life holds great potential," she said, adding she wants to invite people to experience the beauty and elegance of traditional Chinese culture in the modern world. To further this vision, the team attended international hanfu events.

In June, Wu dressed as the historical figure Li Bai, a poet from the Tang Dynasty, and traveled to Astana, capital of Kazakhstan, to attend the China-Central Asia Cooperation Development Forum.

"We were there to participate in an event called 'The Most Beautiful Chang'an Night'. Wearing the hanfu and performing Tang Dynasty rituals, I engaged with overseas participants who showed great interest in my attire," he said.

"When we wear traditional Chinese garments abroad, people are often surprised and impressed, finding them both beautiful and sophisticated."

In 2024, the team participated in a traditional Chinese-style fashion show in Paris, France. At the 2023 Euro-Asia Economic Forum held in Xi'an, they wore elaborate historical costumes to welcome guests to a gala dinner.

The team was also involved in events honoring China's legendary ancestor Huangdi, attended by compatriots from across the Taiwan Strait, and cultural exchange events for international students in Shaanxi.

Wu said that wearing hanfu for promotional purposes fills him with cultural confidence and pride.

"We focus on promoting and revitalizing traditional culture, with hanfu serving as a gateway to a full experience of that heritage," he said.

"In Xi'an, you can take a stroll on the streets wearing a hanfu without worrying about what others think. You can confidently wear hanfu, enjoy tea, go shopping and take photos. It represents a lifestyle that encourages one to slow down and savor the moment."

Xi'an, where China's hanfu economy booms, intertwines the cultural trend with its rich historical heritage, creating a unique atmosphere. In every corner of the city, people of all ages can be seen going around wearing hanfu.

In 2024, Xi'an had 1,814 hanfu-related enterprises, making it the leading city in the country for hanfu experiences. Shaanxi province has 2,053 such enterprises, accounting for over 25 percent of the national total, the Xi'an Daily reported.

"We believe that wearing hanfu means embracing culture, which involves research and understanding. For example, when we invite influencers or actors, we assign them roles like Li Bai or Du Fu, poets from the Tang Dynasty. They need to study these historical figures, understand their attire and lifestyle, and then choose suitable costumes for their performances," Wu said.

"The overall aesthetic sense in the country is improving. Since the rise of hanfu, many people have inquired about hanfu costume shops. From a professional perspective, the styles in these shops are often inaccurate.

"Immediate perfection isn't the goal. The first step is to spark interest in hanfu among the public. The proliferation of costume shops has helped achieve this by introducing hanfu to people. Once people are familiar with hanfu, we can educate them about high-quality styling and the correct forms," he added.

A survey released by market consultancy iiMedia Research in 2025 showed that about 57 percent of hanfu consumers in China have a good understanding of its styles, about 20 percent can only identify hanfu. About 16 percent are very knowledgeable about its styles.

"Our mission is to serve the public and revitalize traditional culture. Rather than merely teaching the forms and styles of hanfu, we demonstrate the authentic styles, enabling people to truly appreciate them," Wu said, adding that aesthetic appreciation is a quality that evolves over time.