Chun - which means spring in Chinese - serves the best Shanghainese food in the city, according to patrons who swear by its cuisine. Set inside an unpretentious house in the heart of the city, the restaurant has just four tables, and very often, guests have to book in advance to reserve a place at the table.

The hotel has drawn rave reviews - from the most unexpected of sources.

"My daughter suggested I try this place out after she read about it in the Wall Street Journal," Zang said.

"She said she too would visit the place when she came down," said Zang, a senior researcher who left Shanghai to the US more than 20 years ago. "I also think it is a delight to eat home-style food with my family in such a restaurant. It is world-famous now."

Aside from sampling tasty dishes, admirers like Zang are also in awe of its proprietress, Qu Minglan, a cherubic 51-year-old who is perfectly happy to keep the restaurant running the way it has been for the last 20 years.

Qu never wanted to expand her restaurant, nor make it look better, she said, even at a time when increased customer inflow is creating a strain on the business model.

The restaurant has a maximum seating capacity of 20, and a floor area of a mere dozen sq m. The storefront eatery, on the ground floor of a three-story building in the upscale French Concession area, isn't much to look at either, especially when compared to the number of glamorous boutiques around it that sell pearls, jade and a variety of fashion accessories and gift items.

But it blends in nicely into the archaic style of the old neighborhood of which it has been a part - Qu's family lived there for 70 years before she decided to turn it into a restaurant.

"All the tables and floor bricks are as old as the restaurant itself. I never changed them," said Qu. "I feel comfortable with its present size and the intimate atmosphere that goes with it."

Qu said she was not eyeing big profits from the business. "I always tell my customers not to come too often... it's important to keep a balance... otherwise they would easily get bored," she said.

Qu has made it a point to close dinner services at 8 pm (two other restaurants in the neighborhood are open well into midnight), and keep it shut on Sundays. Qu said that allows her and its customers to do other things - she is learning tai chi, and piano classes are also on the menu.

At Chun, phones buzz all day long for reservations. Qu would patiently answer customer queries and take down their phone numbers for reservations.

What if they don't show up? To this, Qu has a ready explanation.

"In most cases, people will come. It's a promise between us, isn't it? That's why I like doing business this way, making calls and then meeting. And, customers don't have to wait too."

That is also how Qu develops a bond with her customers. She knows their voices, names and, perhaps, a little bit of their stories as well - it is a special kind of service that most customers cherish.

"I have even become familiar with some of my customers simply by listening to them over the phone. Sometimes they call me just to say hello," she said.

But, of course, the real secret to retaining Chun's loyal customers boils down to the quality of its food and service. Wu Weiguang, the chief cook, is a native Shanghainese who is an expert in local cuisine.

Qu too is a real gourmet. Visitors don't need to look at the menu - in fact, there is no menu at the restaurant. Qu knows what is best and would tell you what to have. What's more, a four-course dinner for three with some of the best-known delicacies on offer costs only about 200 yuan ($29.27).

"I really like the place and the food," said a young woman surnamed Huang, who was having dinner at Chun's with three of her friends. "Can you imagine? I eat more here than even at home."