Domestic vintages have tough row to hoe

More grapes cultivated

China's relationship with wine stretches back thousands of years, but the country is better known for its wines made from rice, sorghum and mead.

As interest in foreign wines grows in tandem with economic prosperity, China's grape wine production is on the rise.

"We know China can make good wine," said Beijing-based wine blogger Jim Boyce, noting that a century ago, Zhang Bishi of Changyu Pioneer Wine Co in Shandong received international accolades, and 25 years ago, fellow Shandong winery Huadong won medals abroad.

"The difference today is that we see good wine being made throughout the country. The big issue for consumers is actually being able to find good local wines at good prices," he said.

Stretches of land in China's Northern province of Ningxia have been transformed into vineyards that have become internationally recognized.

French multinational luxury goods conglomerate LVMH set up a joint venture there in 2012, helping to produce China's first sparkling wine under the prestigious Chandon label.

'Wines are improving'

But there is a long way to go. "Improving" was the word chosen by most sommeliers and experts to describe the quality of Chinese wines this year.

Vinexpo chief executive officer Guillaume Deglise said: "Their wines are improving. Not all of them, I'm afraid, but some of them already have a very good quality."

Others say patience is required. "It takes time. Vines aren't something you can plant and have good wine that year. Young vines produce a thinner, less attractive wine. It's just nature," said Master of Wine Debra Meiburg.

She added that good Chinese wines are on par with "mid-market" wines suitable for day-to-day drinking, but not for "very special occasions", nor are they "Michelin three-star wines".

"China will rock our wine world - we just have to wait a little longer. It's just too young," she said.

But to other buyers, China is simply not known for its wine.

"We like the products that truly represent the area. I wouldn't even buy white wine from Bordeaux," said Angel Lee, director of Hong Kong-based wine trading company MBL.

"In China, their tea is very good."

Although selling is a different story, when it comes to the casual sniff, swirl and sip, knowing the origin may not be necessary.

"Wine is pleasure. If you don't know the provenance, you have to enjoy what you have," said a French visitor after taking a sip of "People's Chardonnay" at the show.

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