Haider Ackermann's Moment

Paris – His name is bandied about as a possible, and highly plausible, eventual creative director of France's three most famous fashion houses - Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Chanel. His show on the morning of Saturday March 5, in Paris had every major editor of importance attending. His latest collection was a superlative display of technique and skill, a modernist romantic reverie that had his whole audience entranced. Yes, this is very much Haider Ackermann's moment.

On the basis of this truly special show, Ackermann, a Colombian-born designer financed by a Belgium fashion group, could assuredly design for any of the three storied Paris brands. However, there was also a striking feeling that seeing he is creating such unique and telling fashion with own label, perhaps Ackermann should not be in such a hurry to leave home.

For fall 2011, Ackermann wants women to be courtly aristocrats, in sleek and satin felt micro jackets over shiny harem pants, paired with beveled platforms and dissected with huge five-inch wide leather belts and massive buckles. There's a gutsy fragility to his style that is both elegant and exceptional.

This fall collection had many of Ackermann's signature tricks - Jacobean striped pants, revealing side vents and holes or zippered, soft leather gloves that flop around the wrist. Yet this was a very fresh collection, especially so, as the designer has an uncanny ability to mix several garments into one, with real ease. So his opening outfits were mixes of tuxedos, trench coat and dress all in one piece.

"My woman is fragile and therefore tries to protect herself. Yet there is a force to the fragility," said the designer backstage.

Beginning in black and white, he gradually rolled in deep colors, iridescent crimson, deep turquoise and the hue of the season, teal. Staged in a construction site in the contemporary Palais de Tokyo museum, with an evocative recital by Canadian poet/singer Leon Cohen on the soundtrack, the audience fell into an almost religious silence; so impressive was this statement of modern elegance.

Asked about all the rumors of a major league job, Ackermann responded to TV cameras: "I've a little atelier where I work in Belgium, so I hear things, but don't feel them. There are places I could imagine going to. But it needs to be a love affair from both sides. It also depends on the codes of the house. Let's see."

Ackermann's house is financed and majority controlled by Anne Chapelle, the backer of another leading designer, Ann Demeulemeester. Sitting front-row, Chapelle's husband, Meir Sade, the high-flying Israeli investor and entrepreneur, added: "Of course we have been approached. Haider is an exceptional talent. But how many designers have seen their own house grow into a real success once they sign for a major label. Maybe Marc Jacobs. But there are very few. That has to be considered."

Whatever happens next, expect Ackermann to be a major source of conversation in fashion for the rest of this year.