Classic drink takes fresh root in Europe

During the past 15 years or so, the world of tea has seen lots of changes. A much wider variety, increase in product knowledge and improved product quality have generated better consumer awareness and refinement, leading to a growth in consumption.

High quality leaf teas have seen their market share grow and the introduction of the "single origin" premium teas from China are blazing new paths, although 90 percent of tea consumption in Europe remains in "tea bags".

Elegant teashops have also been sprouting up all over European capitals and they all carry an important assortment of high-quality Chinese leaf teas.

Traditional tea drinkers may still consider that it is in the hills of Darjeeling in India where the champagne of tea is produced. But newcomers to the market are the ones who have keenly discovered the incredible variety of premium teas from China.

A number of European pioneers began travelling to China in the 1990s to learn more about these famous teas, which at that time were still difficult to purchase. Lu Yu's classic Cha Jing or Book of Tea was re-translated and a whole series of tea books have been written and edited in the last 10 years, promoting this knowledge to new tea consumers.

Premium green tea such as the first pickings of longjing and tai ping hou kui arrive in very small quantities and they are sold to "registered" customers in 20g bags.

Pu'er tea is becoming better known every year, in particular the mini tuocha.

White teas were intensely promoted a few years ago by some market operators, not only from China but also from Sri Lanka and parts of India.

Most speciality teashops carry oolong tea, and some of them may also sell yellow tea. Given the very small production, these teas are rare and available only to "insiders".

Types of flower tea, in particular jasmine, are very well known and greatly appreciated, although not always identified as Chinese tea.

Fine Yunnan tea is well-known, with discerning customers willing to pay the very high prices for "premium golden tips" and the more common variety also available.

Gourmet consumers are keen to exercise their palate and taste buds, but often require guidance from the teashop or teahouse manager.

Barbara Dufrene is a French tea consultant and was secretary-general of the European Tea Committee from 1992 to 2004.