Mountains of gold
By Li Jing (Beijing Weekend)
Updated: 2004-01-14 11:19

As summer ends and autumn arrives, the days get shorter and shorter. This is how the trees known how to begin getting ready for winter.

The first autumn gifts are the red and gold leaves that appear in the mountains.

In Beijing, the Fragrant Hills are still the first choice for tourists who want to enjoy the leaves of autumn, despite the weekend crowds and traffic that accompany the change of season.

The Fragrant Hills, where many emperors and their families built their resorts, have been open to the public for 50 years.

The park is rich in culture - home to dozens of temples, ancient buildings and the legends that surround them.

Located 28 kilometres northwest of downtown Beijing, the Fragrant Hills are, as their name indicates, a sweet-smelling area of natural beauty in the east of the western hills. Initially developed in 1186 in the Jin Dynasty, the park became a summer resort for imperial families during the Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties.

Best places to enjoy red leaves

Xiangshan Temple, Banshan Pavilion and Yuhua Peak are popular places to view the autumn leaves. If you are fit enough, you can also climb up to Pingtai, Xishan Qingxue and Shenyuwu, which give a bird eye's view of the whole mountain.

For people with children, Shuangqing Villa, Jianxin Hall and Liuli Pagoda are recommended due to their lower altitude and easy access by road.

The route to Pingtai is wide and relatively easy to manage.

Various temples and scenic spots are scattered around the hills. Tourists usually take two routes to explore the whole park.

For both routes, there is an entrance fee of 20 yuan at the East Gate. The first choice is to go along the path northward and then turn left, where you will see Bright Temple (Zhaomiao). This is a Tibetan-style complex built in 1780 as the residence for the sixth Panchen Lama when he visited Emperor Qianlong.

The majestic glaze-tiled gateway in front of the complex is famous for its cloud and dragon design. Inside the compound is a 10-metre-high terrace in the Tibetan style. Right behind the temple is a seven-storey, glazed-tiled octagonal pagoda. Bronze bells hung from the eaves tinkle in the breeze.

And next to the Bright Temple is an elegant example of garden architecture: a pond, waterside kiosks and chambers. Emperor Qianlong lived here. Exiting the Studio of Tranquil Heart, down the path to the east, there is a clear lake. It received the name of Spectacles Lake because it is divided into two parts by a small bridge, like a set of glasses. Most tourists exit from the North Gate after they visit the Lake.

The other route heads south. Its main attractions include: Tranquillity Green Lake, Shuangqing Villa, the Ruins of Fragrant Temple, the Jade Flower Villa, the Ruins of Xiangshan (Fragrant Hills) and Incense Burner Peak. This route is a harder one, but with more to see.

To the right of the North Gate, there is a ropeway station where tourists can take a chairlift to the summit (Incense Burner Peak).

Admission fee: 10 yuan (US$1.20) Other fees are charged at some of the temples.

Chairlift: 30 yuan (US$2.80) per person. It takes you to the summit of the hill. In strong winds, the chairlift does not operate.

Accommodation: It usually takes half a day to visit Fragrant Hills Park. If you want to stay for one night, hotels are available at the foot of the hill. One contacted charged 700 yuan (US$87) for a two-bed room. Restaurants and teahouses can also be found here.

Best way there: The bus is the easiest transport option because there are special bus lanes en route and no parking hassles on arrival.

Catch No 333, 318, 360 or 904 from downtown Beijing.

Opening hours: From 6am to 7pm, every day.