Catering for the best
By Ye Jun ( Beijing Weekend)
Updated: 2004-09-15 08:15

Memories of the glorious past and great tastes that still remain today is what Zhi Yu Xuan boasts most about itself.

The restaurant opened in July on the 3rd floor of Zhong Fu Da Sha, opposite the World Trade Centre.

The manager and chef are from Feng Ze Yuan, a leading restaurant in the early years of the People's Republic of China.

Since the founding of the PRC in 1949, Feng Ze Yuan had became the designated restaurant for state leaders and diplomatic banquets. State leaders such as Zhou Enlai and Song Ching Ling, as well as many statesmen from foreign countries, continually dined at the restaurant.

Many of the country's best chefs have worked at the restaurant. Its brand name has become a symbol of good food.

Today, although Feng Ze Yuan still stands, many of its experienced chefs have moved elsewhere to open their own businesses.

Wang Yijun, Feng Ze Yuan's former chef, can easily remember the dishes served for celebrities such as Premier Zhou Enlai, former American Secretary of State Henry Kissinger, and the late master Peking Opera actor Mei Lanfang.

Zhi Yu Xuan specializes in Beijing and Shandong cuisines. Representative Cantonese dishes are also available, the most expensive being abalone, shark fin and bird's nest dishes.

To supplant oneself to enjoy a celebrity banquet of the past costs between 1,800 yuan (US$218) and 9,800 yuan (US$1,186).

The restaurant also offers set dishes from 150 yuan (US$18) to 460 yuan (US$56).

The Yu Chi Lao Fan (shark fin) set menu costs from 128 yuan (US$15.5) to 158 yuan (US$19.1), consisting of five courses including cold dish, fruit and dim sum.

One can also order a la carte. Cold dishes start from 8 yuan (US$0.97) to 26 yuan (US$3.1). Hot dishes cost from 16 yuan (US$2) to 48 yuan (US$5.8). Abalone, shark fin and bird's nest dishes cost up to 480 yuan (US$58.1).

Nong Xiang Si Bao, soup with abalone pieces, deer tenderloion, processed swimming bladder, and grass mushroom, are all rich in flavour. So is Cong Shao Hai Shen, sea cucumber stewed with spring onion and garlic sauce. The dish is served with a bowl of rice. The cucumber is tender and fragrant.

Yu Gu Liu Ji Pu, fish bone and chicken breast, tastes rather particular with chicken made into small round pieces, and the fish bone made soft. It is mild and delicious.

Xiang Su Ya Fang, an aromatic crispy duck cube, is also worth trying. Duck meat is pressed into a cube and fried golden. It is served with small cakes in the shape of lotus leaves, and the condiments that accompany every Beijing roast duck. It tastes just like Beijing roast duck, but is crispy and the texture is different.

A five course meal like this will cost approximately 150 yuan (US$18) per person.

Location: 3rd floor, Zhong Fu Da Sha, Da Bei Yao, opposite World Trade Centre, Chaoyang District 

Tel: 6581-3536