Tuesday, June 12 

On first sight, Temple of Heaven Park was refreshingly green and strikingly silent. Some of Beijing's densest canopy stretched low overhead as a physical barrier from the bustle outside the walls. It was the reprieve I needed after the hour-and-a-half, two-bus trek from my apartment north of Third Ring Road.

But soon the silence gave way to a distant cacophony of nasal flutes, each singing a different tune. Pairs of elderly gathered around performers in the squares, breaking up every natural expanse. It was pleasant, but far from relaxing.

Most crushing was the tantalizing grass - a thick, vibrant carpeting that was fenced off, forbidden. This was a surprise. Travel guide descriptions of the park lauded its size, recommending two or three hours to cover everything, but none mentioned that most of it was off limits. From the word "park" I'd been expecting a recreation area - like Central Park or Hyde Park - but with the greenery caged, it seemed that this trip would be more of an outdoor museum. Disappointed but determined, I consulted the first map I found and began sightseeing.

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