Man on a custom-made mission

Leather goods from Berluti.

Sartori addresses the idea of men being resistant to change. "Generally the adage is men are afraid to be styled in a different way so we started with (introducing luxurious fabric in) simple things," he says.

Last spring he used an open work pique jersey in two-tone jacquard on basic polo shirts. Highly prized Japanese denim was cut and crafted with couture details like leather binding. Sartori makes a strong point that the denim is "not just classic ring (ring denim is a type of denim weave where the threads are wound 'like rings'- meaning vertical then woven. This technology came from Japan)", but a special machine-washable weave of 70 percent cotton and 30 percent silk, which will not fade.

This autumn, stores have received unlined leather blazers and unlined cashmere sports jackets. This coming spring, expect to see suits in linen and Tussah silk with tweed finishes. Next winter, he will introduce baby llama, cashmere and alpaca melanges in unlined, striped, solid and checked jackets.

A unifying quality in this subtle introduction to new ideas is that at first sight, there seems to be nothing earth-shattering with the clothes because they have retained their basic silhouettes. And yet ... upon closer inspection there is a difference. There is a subtle, identifiable newness in the fit and the fabrics.

Sartori sums up his strategy: "I like creating new rules but with knowing the rules. I don't want to do something just for design or any new product ... and now we have arrived at a moment where the average man is not afraid to try something new, where he doesn't have to be a fashionista to be able to style his scarf in a different way."

One ensemble Sartori is extremely passionate about is the three-piece suit in all its incarnations but with a special fondness for those in superfine, 13-micron wool.

"The three-piece suit is part of this (move to change and newness). There is this impression that only very stylish guys can carry a three-piece suit. It is not a costume," he says. "The need to have a gilet is behind the flavor or energy or the look that a three-piece suit would give you."