In Vogue

In Ma's spring/summer 2014 collection, jackets pair with miniskirts and balloon sleeves to add romance and casual appeal. [Photo provided to China Daily]

"I'm not a paper designer," she says. "I can cut and sew. I am good at sketching. Talent is something that is necessary in this business. I feel that vision is my strength. It's the balance between creativity and practicality. I don't believe in simply delivering a service. I want to be a brand, not just another designer."

Talking about Chinese fashion brands, she sighs: "Everyone is asking me who would be the next Chinese Prada or Armani. China needs a solid fashion system first. That will then allow room for the avant-garde. Right now, avant-garde in China is shallow because the structure isn't there. We need people with different business models."

Ma explains that if a brand has a diversified range of products, there is less pressure placed on the success or failure of individual collections. Eventually, she anticipates that she will design menswear and accessories such as perfume to complete her brand's scope beyond womenswear.

She currently operates out of Shanghai in a 550-square-meter studio with 40 staff members, while her Paris studio has a fluctuating number of between seven to 15 people.

"The atmosphere is healthier for independent brands in Shanghai," Ma says.

"Beijing is my hometown but it's a media center and it can be difficult to get proper resources in the north. As a port city, Shanghai has the former French Concession and was a hub for fashion. Its tailors understand how to do things. Beijing is about politics, power and modern art. Shanghai is better at producing delicate products."

For her Fall/Winter 2014 collection, Ma plans on designing something completely different. "It will be whatever I want. I don't care if it sells. I want that 15 minutes of doing something that will bring me happiness. I have something to say to the world."

IF YOU GO

Galeries Lafayette Beijing (starting March 2014),110 Xidan Beidajie, Xicheng District, Beijing, 010-5962-9888

One by One Boutique

No. 237, L2, 245 Madang Road, Xintiandi Style, Shanghai, 021-3331-2627

www.masha-ma.com