From thigh-skimming mini-shifts to floor-length goddess gowns, the dress rules this spring.

The freshest shape is the shift, which comes in everything from duchesse satin, as at Giles, to embellished fabrics, at Michael Kors. More ethereal options include baby-dolls, Empire-line silhouettes and chiffon confections.

How to make it work: with so many styles to choose from, it's hard to put a foot wrong. Shifts are a good, flattering all-round choice, while Empire-line baby-dolls are best left to the young and willowy.

Ruffles and frills

It's not all about pared-down shapes: feminine ruffles and fluttering frills are adding drama to anything from shirts to gowns. Keep it simple with an ornate top, or go for all-out glamour with one of Stefano Pilati's exquisite dresses for Yves Saint Laurent.

How to make it work: these details add volume, so play it safe with a frilled-collar or ruffle-front blouse; alternatively, contrast the volume with a cinched waist.

Jil Sander and Helmut Lang may have both left their eponymous labels, but they are key to a return to the stark early-Nineties aesthetic. Sleek tailored suits, sporty separates in luxurious fabrics and a neutral palette herald a fresh, pared-down approach. Even Alber Elbaz stripped back his look at Lanvin, producing sleek, simple skirts and sharply cut shifts.

How to make it work: this is the easiest look to perfect - it's all about simplicity and clean lines. Keep hair and make-up as sleek and minimal as possible, too.

Shorts

Start getting your legs in shape now. There were scary, thigh-skimming shorts aplenty on the catwalk, but there are plenty of more wearable options for high summer, too.

Dries Van Noten's crumpled versions come in gorgeous washed-out prints and more lustrous silks, while Paul Smith took a more masculine approach in crisp cottons.

How to make it work: clearly, shorts are a perilous option. If your legs aren't up to scratch, choose longer, more flattering styles and wear them with a voluminous top and a pair of chunky-heeled sandals.

Vintage couture

The dramatic silhouettes of the Fifties and Sixties inspired numerous designers - from Phoebe Philo's trapeze-line for Chlo¨¦, to the sculptural shapes at Giambattista Valli and Roksanda Ilincic. Overblown sleeves, dramatic collars, stiff pleating and voluminous skirts are key to this look, which comes into its own in lush fabrics for night.

How to make it work: you need height to carry off these extreme silhouettes, so wear them with heels. It's also key to balance the volume - pair an over-blown bell-sleeved top with a pencil skirt and vice versa.

White

From Chlo¨¦'s appliqu¨¦d cut-work dresses to Balenciaga's sculptural shifts, white dominates the spring collections. While some designers have taken a minimal approach, most opted for a romantic mood with lace and broderie anglaise. Key pieces come in unadorned white, too: white shirts, skinny denim jeans, and patent accessories.

How to make it work: texture is key, so look for pieces with decoration, such as lace panelling, and contrast with something metallic - such as silver gladiator sandals, for instance.

Nudes and blush

Summer's most romantic palette is comprised of soft nudes, dusty-rose and pale cappuccino shades. They work best in fine fabrics, such as Dior's layered chiffon dresses, or, in contrasting textures; Alberta Ferretti has combined pleated chiffon with smooth satin to great effect.

How to make it work: these shades look best on those with dark or olive colouring, or with a tan. Beware nude shades in shiny materials, which can add inches.

Oriental

Memoirs of a Geisha has inspired designers to look to the East. Wide, obi-inspired belts have appeared in countless collections; the most beautiful were the slick, modern versions at Lanvin. For exquisite kimono prints and languid shapes, Dries Van Noten's collection was a kaleidoscopic take on oriental colours and styles.

How to make it work: avoid taking this look too literally - focus on individual elements. Try vintage kimonos over jeans, or transform a simple shirt and pencil skirt with a silk obi in a bold colour.