The city that's 'half the world'

Esfahan's striking Islamic architecture and distinctively colored tiles draw tourists to the buildings around the city's huge public square. Mike Peters / China Daily

On my first visit to the city in 2006, when an American tourist was extremely unusual, I found myself totally absorbed in the social scene of the Si-o-Seh bridge, also known as the 33-Arch Bridge.

The light smoke of water pipes perfumed the air, and when my official guide stepped away to buy some snacks, I found myself sitting and chatting with about a dozen young men enjoying the night out. They spoke no English but understood "American!"－and eagerly poured tea for me and chuckled among themselves about the odd bird that had landed in their nest.

When my guide finally found me, he was slightly panicked: I'd been partying with a group of Iran's Revolutionary Guards.

Tolerance, however, is a hallmark of this city.

Jews have thrived here since the time of Cyrus the Great, and there are large populations of Georgians and Christian Armenians, the latter enclaved primarily in the suburban community of "New Jolfa" at one end of the Si-o-Seh bridge. Visitors can see distinctive churches and craftsmanship from this artistic community.