Cracking a classic culinary code
Food historian attempts to re-create old recipes described in Cao Xueqin's book, only to discover that there is more to the story, Xu Fan reports.
For diehard fans of the household classic Dream of the Red Chamber, the lavish world of the Jia family offers more than just drama — it stirs culinary curiosity. Among the many delicacies described by novelist Cao Xueqin (1715-63), one stands out: qiexiang, a refined, preserved eggplant relish.
In the 41st of its 100 chapters, the sharp-witted noblewoman Wang Xifeng offers some qiexiang to Liu Laolao (granny), a poor, distant, elderly relative from the countryside.
Wang's description is both vivid and daunting: "Peel fresh eggplants, dice the flesh, and fry in chicken fat. Add finely chopped chicken breast, mushrooms, bamboo shoots, truffles, spiced tofu, and dried fruits. Simmer in chicken broth until dry, season with sesame and pickled sauce, then seal in a porcelain jar. To serve, mix with stir-fried diced chicken."
Liu is astounded and sticks out her tongue. "Heavens, it must take a dozen chickens just to make this — no wonder it tastes so extraordinary!"
