More Chinese designers in spotlight at NY show

Designer Tiffany Huang (front left) poses with models on Thursday in New York City. [Photo/Agencies]

"More and more Chinese designers coming to overseas fashion weeks reflects the rise of China's fashion market and its synchronization with the overseas fashion market," said Todd Hessert, founder of fashion media company Globe Fashion Runway.

"It's a good phenomenon," he added. "Design in China has gradually globalized and been recognized by overseas media and buyers."

Hessert, who is based in New York, and his teams in London, Milan and Paris help global designers market their brands.

He said that in the past two years, be it in Paris or New York, Chinese designers have been more accepted by organizers.

"The door is open for Chinese designers to be more active in the world fashion market," he said, citing such examples as Taoray Wang, Lan Yu, Zhang Chi, Yang Lu, Snow Xue Gao, Calvin Luo and Vivienne Hu.

Wang, whose designs are a favorite of US first daughter Tiffany Trump, is returning to New York Fashion Week for the eighth time.

Wang, once the chief designer for Chinese domestic brand Broadcast: Bo, launched her namesake Taoray Wang line, which targets the modern professional woman, three years ago.

Her latest collection, "Shanghai Baroque", will debut on Saturday at New York Fashion Week.

Wang said she has embraced a blurring of time and culture, balancing the ornate detail of baroque with her signature sophisticated tailoring.

On Tuesday, Taoray Wang will also present the new Taoray Taoray line, a brand designed to cross boundaries of age, gender, nationality and occupation.

Lan Yu, a third-time shower at New York Fashion Week, will unveil her new ready-to-wear collection.

Lan's namesake brand is best known for its wedding dresses and evening gowns. The brand has earned widespread recognition not only in China but worldwide, thanks to many celebrities wearing its dresses.

Nicole Zhao, CEO of Lanyu Couture in New York, said the newly added ready-to-wear production line was a strategic move in the company's plans for global expansion.

Besides the big names, China's younger generation of designers is testing the waters in New York City as well.

Emerging brand Lu Yang, established by 31-year-old Yang Lu, will debut its new collection "Fall in Love", which features bright colors and geometric figures derived from the flamingo, a metaphor for faithfulness in love.

Hessert of Globe Fashion Runway said, "These designers have successfully established a world position of 'design in China'.

"In the future, I believe more and more Chinese brands will go to the Big Four fashion weeks. It's a process of accumulation; it's also a necessary course for Chinese designers to reach out to the world," he said.

Hessert's advice for Chinese designers who want to develop an international legacy brand: Have a comprehensive outlook that balances design, media exposure and sales marketing.