Thirty years’ watching the changing face of Beijing

Historic Beijing laid along a seven-kilometer axis. Passing through the Forbidden City and Tian'anmen Square it now traverses the pedestrianized Qianmen Street. It was along this direction the emperor would be transported south to the Temple of Heaven. Often I walked the route, marveling at Qianmen's Jianlou Arrow Tower before heading beyond a traditional pailou arch, ultimately reaching the temple — where the grandest of its circular halls was constructed without nails.

Northwest of the original city lies a vast stretch of water, Kunming Lake, part of the Summer Palace. This formed a retreat for the emperors along with the beautiful pagoda-capped Jade Spring Hill and royal hunting grounds around the Fragrant Hills. Some of my favorite locations there are now easily accessed by metro and tramway, but previously involved lengthy bus journeys.

During the 1950s, Beijing's layout radically changed. The compact walled city embarked on a program of rapid industrialization, resulting in considerable urban expansion beyond those historic walls. This was particularly noticeable in Chaoyang District, where largely rural areas were transformed into vast industrial complexes. Little of this exists today but a significant reminder is the Dashanzi Art District. Much of the original factory structure remains, and until a decade ago trains continued to haul coal to supply its large central heating plant.